The state has fined a suburban brewery an undisclosed amount after they served a special infusion of Jeppson’s Malört with cicadas, celebrating the insects’ 2024 emergence. Noon Whistle Brewing Co. in Lombard made headlines in May for combining Chicago’s infamous liquor with bugs foraged from a neighboring park.

The Illinois Liquor Control Commission’s March report includes a blurb that does not mention Noon Whistle, but it refers to a licensee selling an infusion containing cicadas: “The licensee was cited for the violation and was provided education on the issue.” A message to an ILCC rep wasn’t immediately returned. Noon Whistle’s co-founder Mike Condon confirmed the fine over email and wrote he preferred not to share more info.

In May, Noon Whistle compared its cicada-infused malört to tequilas bottles with worms. They charged $5 per shot, and it was available for a limited time. Malört infusions are all the rage, as neighborhood bars are mixing ingredients like pumpkin spice and candy cane into the liquor. 

Local authorities have long held concerns about spirit infusions made at taverns and restaurants, worried that bartenders would ignore the science and allow bacteria to grow while waiting for flavors to develop. Plenty has changed over the years in terms of information available to the general public. For example, the Illinois Liquor Control Act of 1934 wasn’t written to take into account homebrewers; the Internet has helped better educate folks. The act does include a 14-day limit for infusions and bottles have to be clearly labeled with the start and end dates and listed the ingredients used. The state law also defines infusions as using “ingredients, including, but not limited to, fruits, spices, or nuts, are added to naturally infuse flavor into the spirit.”

Bugs aren’t listed. There’s no such facility to procure food-grade cicadas.

Keep this in mind when cicadas remerge in Illinois in 2037.